如何做出完美的比薩

How to cook the perfect pizza

Source : Guardian Thursday 8 September 2011 Posted by Felicity Cloake

Do you prefer thin and crispy Roman style pizzas, soft and chewy Neapolitan ones, or the hefty American versions?

你比較喜歡又薄又脆的羅馬風格比薩，或那不勒斯軟中帶勁的口感，還是美國的重口味版本？

Felicity's perfect pizza. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Felicity的完美比薩。攝影：Felicity Cloake

Pizza

比薩

I've never met anyone who didn't like pizza. This economic migrant from impoverished Naples is the epitome of the American dream: popularised by the Italian community, adapted to suit new world tastes and then exported around the world, it's the ultimate immigrant success story.

我認為每個人都喜歡比薩。這個來自意大利那不勒斯貧困的經濟移民產物是“美國夢”的縮影：

比薩由意大利社會通俗化，調整，以適應新世界的口味。然後出口到世界各地，最終為移民成功故事 

Of course, Italians can't take all the credit for what is quite simply the world's best snack; as the Oxford Companion to Food points out, the linguistic link between pizza and pitta is surely no coincidence – topped breads have been popular around the Mediterranean since classical times, and Etruscans were baking schiacciata in the Tuscan region over 2,000 years ago. The modern conception of pizza, however, is largely based on the Neapolitan version – not as crisp as the Roman variety, the base should be soft and pliable, yet charred and chewy around the edge.

當然義大利不能保證說此是世界上相當簡單最好的小吃，如同依據Oxford Companion to Food指引說明比薩和皮塔(嵌麵包 ,中間可夾沙拉等, 希臘、中東普遍食用)之間的語言鏈接肯定不是巧合-平頂麵包自古典時期以來一直在地中海周圍流行，和伊特魯里亞人在托斯卡納地區烘烤schiacciata(skichiata)已超過兩千多年。然而，現代的比薩觀念，大部分主要是根據那不勒斯版本-不像羅馬品種那般酥脆，基底應該是柔軟，柔韌，尚未燒焦和耐嚼的邊緣四周。

Far from the embarrassment of toppings loaded on to the deep-dish pizza pies of Chicago, the true Neapolitan pizza has the mere whisper of a garnish to set off its freshly baked charms. The city's famous Da Michele pizzeria opened in 1870, with just one thing on the menu: marinara – tomatoes, garlic and herbs. After Queen Margherita visited the region, 19 years later, it grudgingly expanded its offering to include the new trend – tomatoes, mozzarella and basil, and so it remains today: the only nod to modern excess is a doppio mozzarella.

不同於芝加哥深盤比薩派那般尷尬的配料，真正的那不勒斯比薩餅只是運用私房配菜就能烤出令人喜愛的口味，掀起了新鮮出爐的魅力耳語。市內著名的大米歇爾比薩店在1870年開業，菜單上只有一道菜：大蒜番茄醬，即大蒜、番茄和香草。自女王瑪格麗特訪問了該地區，19年後，它才不情願地依新趨勢擴大其產品包括-西紅柿(蕃茄)，mozzarella奶酪和羅勒，行自今日同意的擴增的不過是: 雙份奶酪。

Pizza, as the American food writer Jeffrey Steingarten (sdigaten)discovered in his quest for the perfect version, is a creature of the heat: the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (pdf) insists that, to earn its seal of approval, they must be baked on the floor of a wood-fired oven, at 485°C.

比薩，在美國食物作家Jeffrey Steingarten所追求完美比薩的版本裡發現其關鍵，即：熱能的製作：依據正統拿波里披薩協會（AVPN）堅持認為，為獲得其批准印章，他們必須在地板上準備一個可以烘烤485°C的燃木烤爐。

Sadly, most of us don't have one of these knocking around in a corner of the kitchen, so I'm going to be working within the necessary limitations of the average home cook, on the basis that, although the results will never be as good as the pizzas at Da Michele's , they will almost certainly be far better than a pizza bought chilled at the supermarket, or which has spent 15 minutes steaming gently in a box on the back of a scooter.

可悲的是，我們大多數人不可能嘗試在廚房的角落裡擁有這個，所以我要在一般家庭料理這樣的限制下去烘焙製作，基於此，雖然結果必不像Da Michele的比薩那樣受歡迎，但他們肯定會遠遠超過在超市買的冷藏比薩，或花了15分鐘輕和的熱一個放在摩托車後面盒子裡的比薩。

Giorgio Locatelli explains in Made in Italy that pizza has to have "the perfect balance between a thin crisp base and a softer garnish, which is why you have to eat it within 5–6 minutes of it coming out of the oven, or it will be soggy and spoilt". This he says, is why, in Italy, pizza comes from the bakers, or street vendors, "not even if they threatened you with six years in prison, would you eat a takeaway pizza delivered on a motorbike!" Case closed.

Giorgio Locatelli(喬治·洛卡泰利)說，意大利製造的比薩必須有“薄酥脆的基礎和較軟的裝飾，已達到為什麼你必須在出爐5-6分鐘內之間吃完的完美平衡，否則將過於潮濕和糟蹋“。他說，這就是為什麼，在意大利，比薩來自麵包師店主，或街頭小販，“即使他們以6年徒刑威脅你，你也不會吃用摩托車交付的外賣比薩！結案 。

The language of flours

麵粉物語

The Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (hereafter to be known as AVPN) is typically strict on this point, specifying finely milled 00 flour – although what it doesn't point out (assuming, possibly, that anyone even pretending to authenticity would know) is that it comes in different strengths: pizza flour, as its sometimes known in Italy, is 00 with a higher gluten content than that used for pastry, and so on.

正統拿波里披薩協會（AVPN）在這一點上嚴格指定00等級精細研磨麵粉 - 雖然它並沒有指出（假設，可能的話，任何人甚至冒充知道），它的優勢是在不同的延展性：因為在意大利有時是00等級的比薩麵粉，以比用於糕點酥皮點心的麵粉筋度含量較高著名，等等。

Silver Spoon recipe pizza. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Silver Spoon比薩配方。攝影：Felicity Cloake

This is worth knowing – although, not if you're using the recipe from Italian cookery bible, The Silver Spoon, which calls for plain flour (preferably Italian type 00), suggesting the milling, rather than the strength, is what informs that preference. The dough is tacky and difficult to handle, but the finished result is good: chewy, crunchy on the underside, and with a pleasant flavour.

這是值得了解的 - 雖然，如果你使用的配方不是來自意大利的烹飪聖經”The Silver Spoon”，他會稱為普通麵粉（極可能就是意大利式00），建議研磨性而不是韌度是其偏好。生麵團具黏性且難以處理，但最終的結果則會呈現耐嚼性，酥脆的底部，和愉快的氣味。

PS: ** In Italy, flour is classified either as 1, 0, or 00, and refers to how finely ground the flour is and how much of the bran and germ have been removed. Doppio zero is the most highly refined and is talcum-powder soft. Many people assume that this softness also means that the flour is low in protein, and therefore particularly suitable for making pasta but unsuitable for making bread**

The pizzette recipe in Locatelli's Made in Italy, meanwhile, opts for strong white bread flour (in his restaurants, he says, they use Italian extra strong W300 P/L 0.55, but this isn't readily available outside its homeland). As he observes, the dough is "very soft and sticky", to the extent that I find his folding technique difficult, and, once baked, the pizza is, although tasty, rather tough – there's no meltingly soft middle here.

Locatelli(洛卡泰利)pizzette配方是在意大利製造的，同時，選擇高筋的白麵粉（在他的餐館，他說，他們使用意大利額外加強的W300 P / L的0.55，但在這家園外是不容易取得的）。他指出，麵團是“非常軟粘”，在某種程度上，我覺得麵糰折疊的技術困難，而且一旦出爐，比薩，雖然好吃，且堅韌-但中間這裡沒有熔化柔軟的部份。

River Cottage recipe pizza. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

River Cottage比薩配方。攝影：Felicity Cloake

River Cottage baker Daniel Stevens uses an equal mix of strong and plain white flour, in an echo of Locatelli's suggested alternative of 00 and strong bread flour. It's quite fluffy, even when I defy instructions and roll it out thinner than the 5mm specified, but definitely softer in texture than my previous efforts.

River Cottage的廚師丹尼爾史蒂文斯使用等於一個高筋和普通的白麵粉混合，回應洛卡泰利建議的00替代和高筋麵粉。這很蓬鬆，甚至當我違抗指示並推出了比指定5毫米更薄，也比我以前努力做的質地更柔軟。

River Cafe recipe pizza. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

River Cafe比薩配方。攝影：Felicity Cloake

The River Cafe Classic Italian Cookbook goes out on a limb with a recipe borrowed from California's Chez Panisse, which uses a rye flour sponge, left to ferment for about half an hour before being combined with a strong flour dough. This one seems distinctly bready and heavy to me, and the rye gives it an unwelcome wholesome flavour. It sticks out like a sore thumbthis is pizza, California hippy style.

The River Cafe 經典義式食譜從加利福尼亞州的Chez Panisse借來的配方，它採用了黑麥麵粉發酵麵糰，此是加入酵母與較強的麵團合併發酵約半小時。但對我來說這似乎明顯很麵包式的和沉重，黑麥，賦予它一個不受歡迎的但有益健康的味道。這那麼顯眼又惹人嫌，是加州嬉皮風格式的比薩。

Jamie Oliver suggests a mix of strong flour and semolina – the latter apparently gives the dough "an authentic flavour and texture". Mine turns out a bit like a cracker however; undoubtedly tasty as a snack food, but not terribly Neapolitan.

傑米奧利弗提出了 高筋麵粉和粗粉混合的建議-後者顯然給了“麵團”一個地道的風味和質地。結果我做的，有點像作餅乾的美味，嚐起來無疑的像是零食且並不十分的那不勒斯。

Heston Blumenthal, on his own quest for perfection, plumps for 100% pizza flour (aka strong 00) – and makes a small batch of dough the day before, which, due to the longer fermentation time, has had time "to really develop flavour". Adding this to the mix certainly gives the base a more assertive, slightly tangy character. It has a good texture too: chewy around the edge, distinctly more yielding in the centre.

Heston Blumenthal(赫斯頓布盧門撒爾)，為自己追求完美，以作出100％ 比薩麵粉（即義式00麵粉） -前一天使用小量的麵團，由於發酵時間較長，有時間“發展真正風味“。加入這個組合肯定使基底更自信，稍微濃郁的特性。它具有良好的質感：四周邊緣極富嚼勁，中心明顯更柔潤。

I decide that, as I'm after a soft base, with a slight crunch to it, strong 00 flour is the way to go – and I'll keep Jamie's semolina to dust the base with, to add a bit of interest to the texture.

我決定要追隨一個柔軟的基礎，並略帶嚼勁，00麵粉是選用的方向 - 我會運用傑米的粗麵粉鋪在基底，添加一點點有趣的質感。

A state of ferment

發酵狀態

Jamie Oliver recipe pizza. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Jamie Oliver的比薩配方。攝影：Felicity Cloake

Jamie's recipe is the quickest of the lot; the dough rests for a mere 15 minutes before dividing and rolling, and I wonder if this could be to blame for its failure to rise, and slightly anodyne flavour. As far as I can tell, the longer the ferment, the more complex the flavour of the base – I'm not looking for something that's going to compete with the topping, but, as it's the principal element of the dish, it should be able to stand alone if necessary, with perhaps just a little olive oil and salt.

傑米的秘方在於最快速的切割麵糰，將麵糰劃分和軋製前僅用15分鐘醒麵，我質疑這可能會被責怪使其失敗率上升，並略有止痛的怪味。據我所知，發酵時間越長，基底的味道更複合 - 我不是尋求與那麵糰上充填的配料競爭，但是，它仍是主要元素，若有必要，或許只是用一點點橄欖油和鹽，它應該是能夠獨自存在。

Twenty-four hours seems a little excessive, although it won't harm the finished product, and, after a little experimentation with a batch of dough, I decide four hours is sufficient to send my bases out in the world with a robust flavour, and enough rise to ensure a beautifully light crust. (Sourdough pizzas, as practiced by Brixton's Franco Manca, are trendy right now, and with good reason: the flavours are superb, but I'm given to understand that not everyone has a starter hanging around in their fridge.)

二十四小時似乎有點超過，但不會損害成品，用一批麵團的一個小實驗後，我決定我的基底四個小時就足夠在世界上散出了強大的氣息，並足夠提升確保一個美麗的輕餅皮。（酵母比薩餅，如Brixton's Franco Manca(布里克斯頓的佛朗哥·曼卡）實作，是現在流行樣式，並有很好的理由：即味道是一流的，但我明白，不是每個人都有開胃菜圍繞放入他們的冰箱。）

Locatelli recipe pizza (I said the dough was hard to work with). Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Locatelli比薩配方（我說這麵團是難以處理）。攝影：Felicity Cloake

The AVPN permits only four ingredients in Neapolitan pizza dough: water, salt, yeast and flour. In fact, it goes as far as to specifically outlaw "all types of fat". Locatelli adds extra virgin olive oil, and the River Cafe use milk as well. I find these make the dough too soft to work with however: pizza dough ought to be elastic enough to stretch under its own weight (given that's how the professionals shape it), but the Made in Italy one is seriously hard to handle. I decide to save the oil for the topping instead: in theory, the dough should have enough flavour without it.

AVPN允許經典的拿坡里比薩麵團只有四個成分：水，鹽，酵母和麵粉。事實上，它會盡可能明確禁止“所有類型的脂肪”。 Locatelli(洛卡泰利)增加了初榨橄欖油，River Café(河畔咖啡館)則使用牛奶。我覺得這些使麵團太軟了，但是比薩麵團應該有足夠的彈性可以根據自身的重量伸展，(這將視專業人士如何塑造它)，但在意大利製作嚴重難以處理。我決定在上面省略橄欖油以替代理論，生麵團沒有它應該有足夠的氣味。

Other ingredients

其他成分

Heston adds malt syrup to his dough, which stumps me, until I discover that this is quite common in Italy – it simply helps the crust to brown, and sugar is often substituted if malt is unavailable. I find it in a health food shop, but given my limited skills as a pizzaiolo, the pizza's aesthetic appearance is the least of my worries, so I leave this out too. In line with the AVPN's principles, if not their recipe, I'm trying my hardest to keep things simple.

Heston在他的生麵糰加入麥芽糖漿-這是一種挑戰－但我發現這在義大利很普遍。它只是幫助他的麵團看起來有黃褐色，而如果麥芽不好取得可以用糖取代。

我在健康食品商店發現它，但鑑於我作義式比薩的技能有限，比薩的美觀外形，是我最不擔心的，所以我也捨棄了這一點。依據AVPN的原則，如果不是他們的配方，我想我最困難的事情是保持簡單。

Hot hot heat

熱得燙手

Heston's inverted frying pan pizza stone replacement technique. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Heston(赫斯頓)的倒轉比薩石煎鍋替代技術。攝影：Felicity Cloake

As previously mentioned, the insurmountable hurdle faced by the home baker is their oven – they simply aren't hot enough. However, there are things you can do to help it out. To mimic the floor of a wood oven, Heston preheats an empty pan, and then slides the pizza on to the red hot base before putting it under the grill. I burn myself twice while attempting this, and, although there's more authentic charring on the sides, I find it's all too easy to overcook the top while waiting for the base to harden with this technique.

正如前面提到的，家用烘培所面臨不可逾越的障礙是他們的烤箱 - 他們根本不夠熱。然而，可做件事情以幫助它。Heston(赫斯頓)模仿地板木烤箱，他預熱空鍋，然後再放入烤架下面之前滑動熾熱的比薩基底。而此嘗試讓我燙到自己兩次，雖然有更重要的是將表面燒焦，我覺得運用此技術讓基底變硬前頂端的配料很容易過熟。

Better, I think, is a pizza stone, or (and more cheaply), a terracotta saucer, heated in the oven (which must, I'm afraid, go on about an hour before you want to cook, turned as high as it will go – the ingredients for pizza may be cheap, but the fuel sadly isn't.) I've also heard good things about pizzas cooked on the floor of AGAs, but, tickled as I am by the concept of a Neapolitan peasant dish coming out of a rural British stove, I can't vouch for this personally.

我認為，有比薩石，或（更便宜）赤陶淺碟更好，在微波爐中加熱（我認為是必須，你要去做比薩前持續大約一個小時，盡可能使它變高 - 比薩的成分可能很便宜，但可悲的是燃料並沒有）我也聽說了關於的AGAS地板上煮熱比薩的好東西，但我用那不勒斯農家菜的概念運用在英國鄉村爐實現，我個人不能保證這個。

It's important to add the toppings as soon as possible before cooking, so they don't make the dough soggy, especially if you're using mozzarella, and to slide the pizza as quickly as you can on to the hot surface (which is another reason why dusting the bottom with semolina makes sense). Then all you can do is wait and pray – and get ready with the plates.

重要的是烹調前盡快添加配料在上面，這樣他們不會使麵團潮濕，特別是如果你使用mozzarella奶酪，比薩可以盡快在熱表面滑動（這是另一種原因粗粉灑在底部是有道理的）。然後你可以做的是等待和祈禱 – 並將盤子準備好。

Perfect pizza

完美的比薩

Felicity's perfect pizza. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Felicity的完美比薩。攝影：Felicity Cloake

Pizza is well worth making at home: it's easy, fun, and perfect to tear into with your fingers. All you need is a hot oven and a light and flavoursome dough – the rest is entirely up to you.

比薩很值得在家做：使用雙手去做很容易，有趣。所有你需要的是一個熱爐，火源和夠味的麵團 - 剩下的就是完全取決於你。

Makes 6–8 depending on size

500g pizza flour (or half 00 flour and half strong white flour)
10g fresh yeast (or 7g instant dried, made up as on packet)
½ tsp sugar
320ml warm water
1 tsp salt

製作6-8視大小而定

500克比薩麵粉（或一半00麵粉和一半高筋白麵粉）
10G鮮酵母（或7克瞬間乾燥小包）
½茶匙糖
320毫升溫水
1小勺鹽

Your chosen toppings

你選擇配料

Olive oil and semolina flour, to serve

橄欖油和小麥麵粉，預備

1. Mash together the yeast and sugar and leave for 1 minute. Stir into the water, then add to the flour and mix in a food processor on the lowest speed for about 4 minutes, until it comes together into a soft dough. Add the salt and then turn the speed up slightly and mix for another 4 minutes. Alternatively, mix them together with a wooden spoon, then turn the dough out on to a work surface, add the salt, and knead for 10 minutes.

1 、將酵母和糖混在一起，並靜置1分鐘。倒入水，然後加入麵粉和食物混合在容器裡以最低速度攪拌4分鐘左右，直到它匯集成軟麵團。加入鹽，然後速度略增再輕輕攪伴4分鐘混合。或是，用木勺將混合在一起，然後把麵團放到工作台面上，加入鹽，揉10分鐘。

2. Put the dough into a large, lightly oiled bowl, and turn over to coat. Cover with a damp cloth, or cling film, and leave in a warm place for four hours.

2。將麵糰放入輕塗油的碗，並翻轉在上塗油。蓋上濕布或保鮮膜，放置溫暖的地方約四個小時。

3. Divide the dough into satsuma-sized pieces and roll into balls on the worksurface using the palm of your hand. Put on a lightly-oiled baking tray, cover and store somewhere cool until you're ready to cook (if you don't want to use it all, the dough should keep at this point for about a fortnight if properly sealed, but don't divide it up until you're going to use it). fortnight十四日,

3。將麵糰劃分成如薩摩蜜橘大小，用你的手掌在工作台上搓成球狀。在烤盤上輕輕上油，覆蓋和存儲在冷的地方，直到你準備做它（如果你不想使用它，麵團應繼續保存妥善密封可放大約兩週，直到你打算使用它時才去分割它）。

4. Turn the oven to its highest setting, and add your seasoned (a new stone should come with seasoning instructions) pizza stone, terracotta or heavy baking tray. Allow to heat for about an hour to make sure there are absolutely no cold spots.

4．打開烤箱，設定在最高溫，並添加您的調味（一個新的石頭來調味說明）比薩石，陶土或沉重的烤盤。能讓熱源持續約一個小時，以確保絕對沒有冷卻點。

5. Dust a worksurface with a little flour and put a ball of dough on to it. Flatten it using your hand, then knock the air out of it with your fingertips. Lift it up on to your fingertips and rotate it, stretching it out as you go until it's as thin as possible, leaving a thicker ring of dough around the edges.

5。工作檯面灑上少許麵粉，並將麵糰放在上面。用你的手壓扁它，然後將空氣用指尖敲出。用指尖舉起並旋轉，隨你伸展出直到它盡可能的變薄，留下較厚的麵團環在周圍邊緣。

6. Slide on to a rimless baking tray or pizza paddle dusted with semolina, and, working as quickly as possible, add the toppings and a drizzle of olive oil. Slide on to the hot surface and cook for about 8 minutes, keeping an eye on them, until crisp and golden. Devour immediately.

6。灑粗粉滑動到無框烘烤托盤或比薩槳，並可能快速運作，添加配料和幾滴橄欖油。在熱表面滑動，約8分鐘，注意他們直到變酥脆和金黃色。立即食用。

Do you prefer thin and crispy Roman style pizzas, soft and chewy Neapolitan ones, or the hefty American versions – and what do you like to top them with? Has anyone any top tips for success, or sourdough recipes they'd like to share ... and will anyone admit that, actually, ham and pineapple is a pretty good combination?

你喜歡又薄又脆的羅馬風格比薩，或那不勒斯的柔軟嚼勁的風格，還是美國的重量級版本 - 你喜歡放置什麼在餅皮上方？如果有任何成功的提示，或發酵麵糰配方食譜樂意分享，且每個人都認可它，事實上，火腿和菠蘿是一個很棒的組合呢？

 參考資料 :

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