Graduate fashion week 2015 ushers in a new wave of designers
Eccentric high-end looks and commercial lines from the latest generation of emerging talent hit the runways for the industry event’s 24th year
新一代的新興人才為工業24週年盛會展現離心高檔外觀和商業路線迎合潮流
Hannah Wallace of Manchester School of Art, winner of the gold award, with models wearing her designs. Photograph: Ian Gavan/Getty Images Lauren Cochrane
金獎獲獎者，英國曼徹斯特大學的漢娜·華萊士，與穿著她的設計的模特兒。
Wednesday 3 June 2015 15.09 BSTLast modified on Thursday 4 June 201512.20 BST
Graduate fashion week (GFW) finished on Tuesday evening with a gala catwalk show crowning the recipient of this year’s gold award. Hannah Wallace, from Manchester School of Art, was named the winner for her edgy but wearable ski-influenced collection featuring oversized padded jackets and logoed sportswear. Her prize is £10,000. Previous winners of the GFW gold award include revered designers Matthew Williamson, CEO and creative director of Burberry Christopher Bailey, Stella McCartney and Giles Deacon.
今年畢業生時裝週（GFW）金獎獲得者盛大時裝加冕秀在週二晚上。曼徹斯特藝術學院，漢娜·華萊士，被評為得獎者，她鋒利但耐磨滑雪裝集合超大棉襖夾克和誇張的運動服為特色。她贏得1萬英鎊獎金。 GFW以前的的金牌得獎者包括令人尊敬的設計師威廉姆森，Burberry CEO 及創意總監克里斯托弗·貝利，斯特拉·麥卡特尼和賈爾斯狄肯。
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Hannah Wallace’s winning designs. Photograph: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
漢娜·華萊士的獲獎設計。圖片來源：特里斯坦Fewings /蓋蒂圖片社
The front row at east London’s Old Truman Brewery, where the event took place, included style blogger Bip Ling, and Suzy Menkes, international editor of Vogue. They watched as florals and boxy sportswear emerged as trends, with an influence from music culture ranging from reggae to hip-hop. Students from the University of Brighton to the University of Salford also showcased their collections.
在倫敦東部的老杜魯門釀酒廠的前列，那裡是舉辦地點，包括style blogger Bip Lin，和時尚的國際版編輯蘇茜門克斯。他們看著花漾和四四方方的運動裝成為趨勢，附帶著受雷鬼到嘻哈的影響的音樂文化。從布萊頓大學到索爾福德大學的學生也展示了他們的收藏品。
Other award-winners included Melissa Villevieille from Edinburgh College of Art, who won the catwalk textile award and the womenswear award, and Ella Nisbett from Nottingham Trent, who won the Stuart Peters visionary knitwear award and the menswear award.
其他獲獎者包括來自愛丁堡藝術學院梅麗莎 Villevieille，這位贏得了走秀紡織獎和女裝獎，和來自諾丁漢特倫特的 Ella 尼斯貝特，這位則贏得了司徒彼得斯 之遠見針織品獎和男裝獎。
FacebookTwitterPinterest Work by Melissa Villevieille of Edinburgh College of Art. Photograph: Ian Gavan/Getty Images
FacebookTwitterPinterest 由愛丁堡藝術學院的梅利莎 Villevieille 設計。攝影：伊恩·加文/蓋蒂圖片社
Judges included Julien MacDonald, a former gold award winner, and television presenter Gok Wan. Both were keen to praise the event as a showcase of new talent – and put it at the forefront of the industry. “GFW is one of the most important dates in the global fashion calendar,” said Wan. “Not only does it promote emerging talent, but it also acts as a source of inspiration for current leading fashion designers.” MacDonald echoed Wan’s sentiment, adding: “These are the designers of the future – the next Alexander McQueen.”
評委包括朱利安 - 麥克唐納，前金獎得主，以及電視節目主持人Gok Wan。兩人都熱衷於讚美新的人才展示 創作設計- 並把它放在工業的前列。 Wan 說“GFW 是全球時尚的行事曆中最重要的日子之一”。 “它不僅促進新興人才設計天分，也可以作為當前領先的時裝設計師靈感之源”麥克唐納呼應Wan 的感悟，補充說：“這是設計師的未來- 下一個亞歷山大·麥昆”
The hugely respected MA courses at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art are likely to be the source the next intake of own-label designers on theLondon fashion week (LFW) catwalk. But events such as GFW allow the spotlight to fall on universities outside London, and move the focus away from the world of high fashion to the rest of the industry – where the majority of fashion graduates work.
在中央聖馬丁藝術和皇家學院受莫大尊敬碩士課程可能是theLondon時裝週（LFW）走秀中自有品牌設計師下一個的引入口的來源。但是，如GFW 發表會讓聚光燈落在倫敦以外的大學，並從尖端高級時裝的世界移動焦點到其他的工業 - 那些廣大時尚畢業生大部分的工作。
FacebookTwitterPinterest Ella Nisbett accepts one of her awards at the Graduate fashion week. Photograph: Ian Gavan/Getty Images
艾拉尼斯貝特在畢業生時裝週接受她其一的獎項。
Winner Wallace’s work has a notable edge, and other eccentric elements included animal heads from Maria Philippou, and Poppy Russell’s ode to northern soul, which came complete with dancers.
優勝者華萊士的作品有個顯著的優勢，和其他古怪的元素包括來自 Maria Philippou 的動物頭，Poppy Russell’s 北方靈魂頌歌，舞者隨之。
More commercial collections came in the form of Nisbett’s and pretty vine prints from Georgie Wood, of the University of Salford. This reflects the fact that many of the 1,000 graduates involved will be recruited to the design teams of high-street brands rather than setting up their own labels. Boohoo.com and River Island were both recruiting at the event.
更多商業的交集來自索爾福德大學的尼斯貝特和來自薩爾福德大學 Georgie Wood漂亮的藤蔓。這反映了一個事實，即1000個畢業生裡有許多的參與將招募到商業街上的設計團隊，而不是建立自己的品牌。 Boohoo.com和River Island 雙雙在活動上招募。
FacebookTwitterPinterest Designs by Nataliya Brady. Photograph: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
Running across a long weekend, the 24th edition of GFW included 23 BA shows and had contributions from 40 UK universities. Unlike LFW, the event is open to the public, with show tickets available for between £11 and £35. The multi-focused event combined vocational advice with fashion entertainment, plus talks between industry figures such as V&A curator Claire Wilcox and model Erin O’Connor, live photoshoots, and the chance to see a 3D printer in action. Nearly 30,000 visitors came through the doors.
經過一周末長假的運作，第24屆GFW包括23 BA 秀和40所已捐助的英國大學。不像LFW，該活動是向公眾開放，演出的門票費用大約在£11 和 £35英鎊之間。多元聚焦活動件並結合時尚娛樂職業諮詢，外加業內知名人士談話如V＆A策展人克萊爾·威爾考克斯和模特兒艾琳奧康納，現場的精品圖片，並有機會中在活動中看到一個3D打印機。近3萬名觀眾前來參觀。
This article was corrected on 4 June. We originally stated that the winning designer received a paid internship with George at Asda. The internship is not being offered this year.
Eccentric high-end looks and commercial lines from the latest generation of emerging talent hit the runways for the industry event’s 24th year
新一代的新興人才為工業24週年盛會展現離心高檔外觀和商業路線迎合潮流
金獎獲獎者，英國曼徹斯特大學的漢娜·華萊士，與穿著她的設計的模特兒。
Wednesday 3 June 2015 15.09 BSTLast modified on Thursday 4 June 201512.20 BST
Graduate fashion week (GFW) finished on Tuesday evening with a gala catwalk show crowning the recipient of this year’s gold award. Hannah Wallace, from Manchester School of Art, was named the winner for her edgy but wearable ski-influenced collection featuring oversized padded jackets and logoed sportswear. Her prize is £10,000. Previous winners of the GFW gold award include revered designers Matthew Williamson, CEO and creative director of Burberry Christopher Bailey, Stella McCartney and Giles Deacon.
今年畢業生時裝週（GFW）金獎獲得者盛大時裝加冕秀在週二晚上。曼徹斯特藝術學院，漢娜·華萊士，被評為得獎者，她鋒利但耐磨滑雪裝集合超大棉襖夾克和誇張的運動服為特色。她贏得1萬英鎊獎金。 GFW以前的的金牌得獎者包括令人尊敬的設計師威廉姆森，Burberry CEO 及創意總監克里斯托弗·貝利，斯特拉·麥卡特尼和賈爾斯狄肯。
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Hannah Wallace’s winning designs. Photograph: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
漢娜·華萊士的獲獎設計。圖片來源：特里斯坦Fewings /蓋蒂圖片社
The front row at east London’s Old Truman Brewery, where the event took place, included style blogger Bip Ling, and Suzy Menkes, international editor of Vogue. They watched as florals and boxy sportswear emerged as trends, with an influence from music culture ranging from reggae to hip-hop. Students from the University of Brighton to the University of Salford also showcased their collections.
在倫敦東部的老杜魯門釀酒廠的前列，那裡是舉辦地點，包括style blogger Bip Lin，和時尚的國際版編輯蘇茜門克斯。他們看著花漾和四四方方的運動裝成為趨勢，附帶著受雷鬼到嘻哈的影響的音樂文化。從布萊頓大學到索爾福德大學的學生也展示了他們的收藏品。
Other award-winners included Melissa Villevieille from Edinburgh College of Art, who won the catwalk textile award and the womenswear award, and Ella Nisbett from Nottingham Trent, who won the Stuart Peters visionary knitwear award and the menswear award.
其他獲獎者包括來自愛丁堡藝術學院梅麗莎 Villevieille，這位贏得了走秀紡織獎和女裝獎，和來自諾丁漢特倫特的 Ella 尼斯貝特，這位則贏得了司徒彼得斯 之遠見針織品獎和男裝獎。
FacebookTwitterPinterest Work by Melissa Villevieille of Edinburgh College of Art. Photograph: Ian Gavan/Getty Images
FacebookTwitterPinterest 由愛丁堡藝術學院的梅利莎 Villevieille 設計。攝影：伊恩·加文/蓋蒂圖片社
Judges included Julien MacDonald, a former gold award winner, and television presenter Gok Wan. Both were keen to praise the event as a showcase of new talent – and put it at the forefront of the industry. “GFW is one of the most important dates in the global fashion calendar,” said Wan. “Not only does it promote emerging talent, but it also acts as a source of inspiration for current leading fashion designers.” MacDonald echoed Wan’s sentiment, adding: “These are the designers of the future – the next Alexander McQueen.”
評委包括朱利安 - 麥克唐納，前金獎得主，以及電視節目主持人Gok Wan。兩人都熱衷於讚美新的人才展示 創作設計- 並把它放在工業的前列。 Wan 說“GFW 是全球時尚的行事曆中最重要的日子之一”。 “它不僅促進新興人才設計天分，也可以作為當前領先的時裝設計師靈感之源”麥克唐納呼應Wan 的感悟，補充說：“這是設計師的未來- 下一個亞歷山大·麥昆”
The hugely respected MA courses at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art are likely to be the source the next intake of own-label designers on theLondon fashion week (LFW) catwalk. But events such as GFW allow the spotlight to fall on universities outside London, and move the focus away from the world of high fashion to the rest of the industry – where the majority of fashion graduates work.
在中央聖馬丁藝術和皇家學院受莫大尊敬碩士課程可能是theLondon時裝週（LFW）走秀中自有品牌設計師下一個的引入口的來源。但是，如GFW 發表會讓聚光燈落在倫敦以外的大學，並從尖端高級時裝的世界移動焦點到其他的工業 - 那些廣大時尚畢業生大部分的工作。
FacebookTwitterPinterest Ella Nisbett accepts one of her awards at the Graduate fashion week. Photograph: Ian Gavan/Getty Images
艾拉尼斯貝特在畢業生時裝週接受她其一的獎項。
Winner Wallace’s work has a notable edge, and other eccentric elements included animal heads from Maria Philippou, and Poppy Russell’s ode to northern soul, which came complete with dancers.
優勝者華萊士的作品有個顯著的優勢，和其他古怪的元素包括來自 Maria Philippou 的動物頭，Poppy Russell’s 北方靈魂頌歌，舞者隨之。
More commercial collections came in the form of Nisbett’s and pretty vine prints from Georgie Wood, of the University of Salford. This reflects the fact that many of the 1,000 graduates involved will be recruited to the design teams of high-street brands rather than setting up their own labels. Boohoo.com and River Island were both recruiting at the event.
更多商業的交集來自索爾福德大學的尼斯貝特和來自薩爾福德大學 Georgie Wood漂亮的藤蔓。這反映了一個事實，即1000個畢業生裡有許多的參與將招募到商業街上的設計團隊，而不是建立自己的品牌。 Boohoo.com和River Island 雙雙在活動上招募。
FacebookTwitterPinterest Designs by Nataliya Brady. Photograph: Tristan Fewings/Getty Images
Running across a long weekend, the 24th edition of GFW included 23 BA shows and had contributions from 40 UK universities. Unlike LFW, the event is open to the public, with show tickets available for between £11 and £35. The multi-focused event combined vocational advice with fashion entertainment, plus talks between industry figures such as V&A curator Claire Wilcox and model Erin O’Connor, live photoshoots, and the chance to see a 3D printer in action. Nearly 30,000 visitors came through the doors.
經過一周末長假的運作，第24屆GFW包括23 BA 秀和40所已捐助的英國大學。不像LFW，該活動是向公眾開放，演出的門票費用大約在£11 和 £35英鎊之間。多元聚焦活動件並結合時尚娛樂職業諮詢，外加業內知名人士談話如V＆A策展人克萊爾·威爾考克斯和模特兒艾琳奧康納，現場的精品圖片，並有機會中在活動中看到一個3D打印機。近3萬名觀眾前來參觀。
This article was corrected on 4 June. We originally stated that the winning designer received a paid internship with George at Asda. The internship is not being offered this year.
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