八大頂級時裝零售商未在孟加拉國簽署安全協議

Eight top fashion retailers fail to sign Bangladesh safety accord

The accord on building safety in Bangladesh has been signed by Primark, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Zara and Tesco

Primark，Tommy Hilfiger，Calvin Klein，Zara和Tesco在孟加拉國已經簽署了安全的的樓宇協議

Source: Simon Neville The Guardian, Tuesday 14 May 2013 21.13 BST

Workers outside a building in Dhaka, Bangladesh, that housed a clothing factory which,
caught fire. Photograph: Ismail Ferdous/AP

工人聚集在孟加拉 達卡城已遭受大火吞噬的成衣工廠外面

At least eight of the UK's leading fashion retailers had last night failed to put their names to a legally binding initiative to offer financial support for fire safety and building improvements in the wake of the Bangladesh garment disaster.

在孟加拉國服裝災害之後，至少有8個英國領先的時裝零售商昨晚並沒有在具有法律約束力的倡議簽署俱名提供財政支持的消防安全及樓宇裝修。

George at Asda, Next, Matalan, River Island, Sports Direct, Peacocks, Shop Direct and the Arcadia group – which includes Topshop, Bhs and Dorothy Perkins – all failed to meet a deadline set by NGOs and labour leaders to sign the pledge.

George at Asda，Next，Matalan，River Island, Sports Direct, Peacocks, Shop Direct和the Arcadia group， -這尚且包括了Topshop，BHS和Dorothy Perkins-都未能滿足由非政府組織和工會領導人簽署承諾設定的最後期限。

The accord on fire and building safety in Bangladesh, which has been signed by H&M, Primark, C&A, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Zara and Tesco, aims to compel retailers to pay for rigorous and independent public inspections and blacklist any factories unwilling to comply.

在孟加拉國符合消防及樓房安全協議，這已經被Primark，H＆M，C＆A，Tommy Hilfiger ，Calvin Klein, Zara and Tesco簽署，旨在以迫使零售商支付的嚴格和獨立的公共檢查和不願意遵守的任何工廠黑名單。

Last night a handful of other retailers did sign up before the deadline, including Marks & Spencer, Sainsbury's, New Look and N Brown, a mail order and online retailer whose brands include High & Mighty, Marisota and figleaves.com.

昨晚少數其他零售商在截止日期前已簽署，包括Marks＆Spencer公司，Sainsbury's(塞恩斯伯里) New Look and N Brown，一家郵購和網上零售商的品牌包括High & Mighty，Marisota和 figleaves.com等公司。

The decision by the handful of retailers not to sign up was criticised by campaigners, who said it undermined any ethical initiatives the companies may have.

Sam Maher from Labour Behind the Label said: "I think they are running out of excuses. No company can say they have the interests of their workers at heart if they can't sign up.

少數零售商未簽署的決定被社運人士批評，他說，它破壞了公司任何可能的道德措施。

山姆馬希爾商標的一位勞工說：“我認為他們正運作藉口，如果他們不能簽署，沒有一家公司可以由衷的說他們擁有他們工人的利益。

"If H&M, Tesco and M&S can sign why can't Next and Arcadia? They have production in Bangladesh and have just as much responsibility to invest in those factories and ensure those workers are safe. Those that have signed have proved this is not an impossible demand.

"Are 1,200 dead workers not enough to make them realise something needs to be done?"

“如果 H＆M，特易購和 M＆S 可以簽署為什麼Next 和 Arcadia不可以？他們在孟加拉國生產並以投資在這些工廠和確保這些工人是安全的有一樣的責任。那些已簽署者已經證明這不是一個不可能的需求。

“1200個工人死亡還不夠使他們意識到需要做這些東西嗎？”

The Ethical Trading Initiative, the UK's biggest alliance of businesses, trade unions and voluntary organisations, which aim to improve working conditions, has recommended its members sign up to the accord. Debenhams, Next and George at Asda are all members of the ETI but have yet to sign up.

道德貿易倡議行動，英國最大的企業聯盟，工會和志願組織，旨在改善工作條件，建議其成員簽署了協議。Debenhams百貨，Next和George at Asda都是 ETI 的成員，但尚未簽署。

A spokesman for Debenhams said: "We fully agree with the intent of the agreement [however] we believe a collaborative approach to issues in Bangladesh is right. We continue to work through the Accord agreement and have provided feedback to the ETI."

Debenhams的發言人說：“我們完全同意該協議的意圖，然而，我們相信在孟加拉國合作的方式的議題是正確的，我們將藉由通過雅閣協議和對ETI的反饋繼續努力。”

The company sources less than 10% of its stock from Bangladesh and confirmed it had never used the collapsed Rana Plaza complex.

公司內部人士透露低於10％的股票來自孟加拉國和證實它從來沒有使用過在倒塌的熱那廣場的綜合設施。

George at Asda, which is owned by US group Walmart, said about 20% of its clothes come from Bangladesh. George did not use the Rana Plaza building, but Walmart refused to confirm or deny whether it sourced clothes there, only saying that no "authorised" production took place there.

George at Asda，由​​美國沃爾瑪集團擁有 說其約20％的衣服來自孟加拉國。喬治沒有使用林蛙廣場建設，但沃爾瑪拒絕證實或否認它是否在那裡採購的衣服，只說，沒有“授權”生產在那發生。

A spokeswoman said: "We are making investments into increasing wages, promoting female empowerment, supporting communities, health and safety initiatives and better working conditions."

一位發言人說：“我們正在投入越來越多的工資，促進女性賦權，支持社區，健康和安全的倡議已及更好的工作條件。”

Next declined to comment, but sources suggested the company could sign up later this week. The failure to meet the deadline by some of the biggest fashion names in the UK comes less than a day after the Bangladeshi government agreed to allow the country's 4 million garment workers to form trade unions without permission from factory owners.

Next 公司拒絕發表評論，但消息人士來源建議該公司將在本週晚些時候簽署。一些英國最大的時尚品牌未能趕上最後期限的簽署，不到一天的時間後，孟加拉國政府同意讓國家的4萬製衣工人組建工會，不需工廠擁有者的同意。

Arcadia group, owned by billionaire Sir Philip Green, said it was unaware of the agreement and had not been approached by the ETI.

阿卡迪亞集團，由億萬富翁菲利普·格林爵士擁有， 說: 這是突然的協議，並沒有被 ETI 著手處理。

A spokeswoman said: "We are not members of the ETI but have our own robust and comprehensive ethical trading programme and a resultant code of conduct."

一位發言人說：“我們不是ETI的成員，但我們有自己健全且全面的道德貿易程序和行為準則的結果。”

She confirmed that the company did not use the Rana Plaza building and it is understood the business has no plans to sign up.

她證實，該公司沒有使用熱那廣場建設，且了解業務沒有計劃簽署。

Matalan, which used suppliers in the building as recently as February this year, said it would not be signing up to the agreement, but said it is part of a different non-binding agreement.

Matalan，也使用該建築的供應商，最近在今年2月表示，它不會簽署該協議，但他說這是不同的不具約束力協議的一部分。

Philip Jennings, general secretary of UNI Global Union, which helped draft the proposals, said, "The clock is ticking for companies to show they care about their Bangladeshi supplier workforce. Their corporate reputations may be on the line but more importantly, so are the lives and livelihoods of these vulnerable factory workers in Bangladesh."

UNI全球聯盟秘書長菲利普·詹寧斯，幫助起草這份建議 並說，“ 隨時間流逝讓公司表明他們關心其孟加拉國供應商的勞動力，他們的企業聲譽可能如日中，但更重要的是，對這些弱勢的孟加拉工廠工人的生活和生計也是的。“

Shop Direct said it will not sign but is working with the International Labour Organisation instead. A spokeswoman added: "We trust their judgement and will continue to follow their actions closely."

是英國最大在線和家用購物的零售商，主要通過目錄和網站經營銷售給消費者的零售品牌包括LITTLEWOODS，Very.co.uk，ISME，Woolworths.co.uk 選擇了一些。該集團在英國，愛爾蘭和歐洲大陸提供服務給客戶。

Shop Direct說，它不會簽署這份文件，但正與國際勞工組織協同運作來代替。一位發言人並說：“我們相信他們的判斷，並會繼續密切追隨他們的行動。”

Sports Direct declined to comment on the agreement but said a very small number of products come from Bangladesh. Peacocks and River Island were unavailable.

Sports Direct 婉拒對此協議發表評論但聲明，該公司來自孟加拉國的產品佔極少數。Peacocks和 River Island 則尚無可用。