如何製作完美的煎蛋

How to cook the perfect fried egg

If you can turn out exquisite fried eggs every single time you've got one over on most cooks. What's your secret?

如果你每一次煎蛋都很精緻，你已經有一項能力比多數大廚更優。那麼你的秘訣是什麼？

Source : The Guardian Posted by Felicity Cloake Thursday 8 November 2012 00.10 GMT

Felicity's perfect fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Felicity的完美煎蛋。 圖片來源：Felicity Cloake

I embark upon this column in the full and certain knowledge that many of you already know how to fry an egg. Indeed, if you are completely confident in your abilities, and never find yourself disappointed by a sadly snotty white or tragically chalky yolk, then pat yourself on the back and then move along – I can teach you nothing. But if, like me, you can fry a perfectly decent egg but wouldn't stake your life on your habitual method, then you are more than welcome to join this brave voyage back to the basics of cookery.

我著手進行你們許多人已知道的如何煎蛋的充分確實知識。 事實上，如果你對你的能力完全有信心，從來沒有發現你會煎出令人傷心如鼻涕般的蛋白或悲慘像白堊的蛋黃，那就拍拍自己的背，別停留 - 我無法教你什麼。 但是，如果像我一樣，你可以煎一個體面的雞蛋，但不堅持你生活習慣的方法，那麼加入這勇敢的航行你會倍受歡迎，以了解更多烹飪的基礎知識。

Those still reading should take heart from the fact that the great Fernand Point, feted as the father of modern French cuisine, is said to have judged a chef by the way he fried eggs. He'd interrupt hopeful apprentices at the stove, legends including Paul Bocuse and the Troisgros brothers, with the cry, "Stop, unhappy man – you are making a dog's breakfast of it!" before demonstrating the only proper way to execute the dish.

Ps:

Fernand Point (1897, Louhans, Saône-et-Loire – 1955) was a French restaurateur and is considered to be the father of modern French cuisine.

Paul Bocuse (pronounced: [pɔl bokyz]) (11 February 1926) is a French chef based inLyon who is famous for the high quality of his restaurants and his innovative approaches to cuisine.

The Troisgros family are a family of French restaurateurs. Since 1957, Jean and Pierre Troisgros have played a significant role in the history ofFrench cuisine.

那些還在衷心閱讀者可從偉大的Fernand Point 了解事實 ，這位現代法國美食之父，據說判斷一個廚師的記憶是從他煎蛋的手藝。 在學習演示的唯一正確的方法來執行的菜之前，他在火爐邊中斷哪些充滿希望的學徒，包括保羅·博古斯和Troisgros兄弟的傳說， 流淚，“停止吧”，不幸的人 - 你是在做狗的早餐了吧！“ 。

Further reassurance comes from award winning Spanish chef José Andrés, who claims "my whole life I have been trying to cook an egg in the right way." Andrés exalts in what he calls "the humbleness" of the dish, but that doesn't mean he just slings it into a hot pan and goes off to make some toast – far from it. Both these culinary giants have very different ways of frying an egg – but who's right? (Note here I'm aiming for the standard British fried egg, known in the States (and perhaps elsewhere?) as "sunny-side up". There will be no flipping.)

PS:

José Ramón Andrés Puerta (born July 13, 1969), known as José Andrés, is a Spanish chef often credited for bringing the small plates dining concept to America.

進一步的保證則來自於聲稱“我的整個生活中，我一直在努力以正確的方式煮雞蛋屢獲殊榮的西班牙廚師何塞·安德烈斯，” 安德烈斯高舉​​他所謂的“謙遜”的菜，但是，這並不意味著他只是將其丟入鍋中，離開去烤麵包 - 遠非如此。 這兩種烹飪巨頭用非常不同的方式煎蛋 - 但誰是對的呢？ （注意這裡我的目標是標準的英式煎雞蛋，在美國被稱為“陽光蛋 其燦爛的一面朝上”（也許還有其他地方嗎？）。並沒有翻轉）。

雞蛋本身 何時蛋就是雞蛋？

The egg itself: when is an oeuf an oeuf ?

Here I'll be concentrating on the hen's egg because, realistically, that's what most of us cook up, but it's worth pointing out that duck eggs have larger yolks, proportionally (and are also bigger all round) and, arguably, a better flavour than many commercial hen's eggs. Be aware, however, that the higher protein content of the white will mean it cooks through more quickly, so it may take some practice to get right. (With ostrich eggs, you're on your own.)

As ever, if you keep your eggs in the fridge, then you should let them come to room temperature before cooking – if you start with a cold egg, then you're more likely to end up overcooking the yolk trying to get the white to set. Very fresh eggs are best for frying, because the stronger proteins will give you a neater shape (this may sound obvious, but older eggs are better for things like boiling, because they're easier to peel).

在這裡我會集中注意在母雞的蛋，因為，實際上，那是我們大多數人所煮的。但值得指出的是，鴨蛋有較大的蛋黃，按比例（而且也更圓大），可以說，比許多商業母雞的蛋有更好的味道。 但是，要知道，蛋白質含量較高的白色部分意味著須通過更迅速的料理，因此需採取一些正確的做法。 （至於 鴕鳥蛋，你是你自己的 ）。

與以往一樣，如果你​​把你的雞蛋放在冰箱裡，那麼在烹調前你應該讓他們恢復至室溫- 如果你開始用冷雞蛋，那麼你就更有可能因試圖將處置蛋白而終結蛋黃。很新鮮的雞蛋是最適合煎炸的，因為較強的蛋白質會給你一個整潔的形狀（這可能聽起來很顯然的，較老的雞蛋是更好烹調如沸騰的，因為他們更容易剝離）。

The cooking fat

脂肪烹調

Delia Smith recipe fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Frying obviously involves adding fat – that's why it's so popular. Bacon fat is the traditional choice in this country, and still advocated by Delia, but very few of us eat enough of the stuff to have any around: I often use it if I'm doing eggs and bacon for breakfast, but although the flavour's good, it does make for a messy looking egg. Delia also suggests substituting groundnut oil, which creates the opposite problem – it's clean, certainly, but deliberately neutral tastewise.

煎炸明顯地需添加脂肪 - 這就是為什麼它是如此受歡迎。 在這個國家培根脂肪是傳統的選擇，仍由Delia主張，但我們很少有人吃的足夠：如果我做的雞蛋和培根我經常用它當早餐，但雖然風味好，它使雞蛋看來一片狼藉。 迪莉婭還建議，代以花生油，這產生相反的問題 – 它是乾淨的，但卻謹慎中性明智的嘗試。

More popular are olive oil, as favoured by Jamie Oliver, the aforementioned Andrés, and American food writer David Rosengarten ("the unaccustomed marriage of fruity olive oil flavor with creamy egg defines anew the upper limits of fried-egg excitement"), and butter, beloved of Point, his culinary disciple Bernard Loiseau, and Cook's Illustrated, among others.

更流行的是用橄欖油，受到Jamie Oliver傑米·奧利弗，前面提到的Andrés安德烈斯，和美國的食品作家David Rosengarten（“將圓潤的橄欖油的味道和含乳脂的蛋結合重新定義煎蛋興味”的上限）的青睞。奶油，是Point，以及他的烹飪弟子Bernard Loiseau,伯納德盧瓦索和and Cook's Illustrated等等的最愛。

Both lend their distinctive flavours to the egg, so it depends what you're going to be serving the dish with – I'd default to butter, because I think the richness is a better complement for the yolk, but if I were plopping it on top of a pile of morcilla and chickpeas, I might go for olive oil instead. (For a fry up, however, I will brook naught but butter.)

藉用何獨特口味烹調的雞蛋，它取決於你將要服務的菜餚 - 我放棄奶油，因為我認為他對豐富的蛋黃是更好的補充，但如果我要在一堆豬血腸，鷹嘴豆上方放上煎但我可能會用橄欖油代替。 （然而對於炒蛋，我會容許使用奶油）。

The cooking temperature

烹調溫度

José Andrés recipe fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Delia uses a high heat for her favourite fried egg, which, she explains, has a "slightly crispy, frilly edge; the white will be set and the yolk soft and runny". She cooks it at this temperature for 30 seconds, then turns the heat down to medium for another minute, which does indeed yield the crisp white she describes. I find it too tough for my taste though: it's like chewing through a hairball, although I concede that the yolk itself is satisfyingly runny.

迪莉婭使用高溫烹調她最喜歡的煎蛋 ，她解釋說，可使白色蛋緣“略脆，鑲褶邊的邊緣和柔軟滑嫩的蛋黃 “。 她在此溫度下持續30秒烹調，然後降溫致中火繼續一分鐘，蛋白確實產生了如她所述一般。 但我覺得口味太硬，但它就像一個需咀嚼的毛球，雖然我承認，蛋黃本身是令人滿意的膠乳狀。

Andrés goes for a medium-high heat instead and, like Delia, tilts the pan to baste the egg throughout cooking. Using a smaller, steep-sided sauté pan and more oil, however, means his egg sits in a pool of hot fat, almost as if it's being shallow fried. It takes me a few goes, and a lot of spitting oil, to get the technique right, but it yields a perfectly cooked egg in just 30 seconds – if you don't mind it looking like a brown poached egg rather than a cheery fried one. Andrés explains that the technique "achieves a higher level of browning around the entire surface of the white, which imparts a distinctive, much more flavourful taste, given the level of caramelisation of the proteins and sugars". Personally, although the contrast of texture between this outer shell and the soft, gooey yolk inside is undoubtedly interesting, it's not what I want on my breakfast plate.

PS :

Frying 應該是油煎、炸和炒的總稱
Saut (來自於法文原為"跳躍"的意思)的差別在它重點不擺在"用器具"翻炒。通常是用平底鍋。

安德烈斯不同的是他以中高熱量煎蛋，與迪莉婭相同的是將鍋傾斜泛並在整個烹飪過程中為雞蛋塗油脂。 使用一個較小的平底鍋用更多的油煎，然而，這意味著他的蛋坐落在熱油脂池，彷彿它是淺煎。 我花了些許時間，熱油發出劈啪聲 ，但它在短短的30秒會能煎出很完美的蛋 -如果你不介意的話，它看起來像一個棕色的荷包蛋，而不是一個明亮的煎蛋。 安德烈斯解釋，該技術“達到更高級別讓棕色在整個白色表面的周圍，給定的蛋白質和焦糖的褐變這會賦予一個獨特的，更可口的味道。 就個人而言，雖然這個外殼和柔軟的質地之間的對比，膠黏的蛋黃無疑是有趣的，但它不是我想的早餐盤。

Jamie Oliver recipe fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Oliver dismisses such "crispy, bubbly eggs" in favour of cooking them gently over a medium-low heat. Indeed, he suggests cracking the egg into a cool pan, and allowing it to heat with the oil, cautioning that "if [it] starts to spit ... turn the heat right down". Far better from a cleaning point of view, certainly, but is the result noticeably nicer? It's certainly "soft and silky" as promised, but the white takes absolutely ages to cook through. They're the best eggs yet, but I'm not convinced they're perfect.

Oliver dismisses 熱衷如“香酥，起泡蛋”的中低熱溫度輕輕烹調地。 事實上，他認為快速將蛋放入冷鍋，並允許加熱的油，警告說：“如果開始點燃 ...溫度馬上降低”。 從清潔的角度來看，肯定好得多，但結果明顯更好嗎？ 這當然是“柔軟，如絲般的承諾，但蛋白色絕對煎得太老。他們還是最好的蛋，但我不認為他們是完美的。

Fernand Point recipe fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Point cooks his egg on a heat "so low that the white barely turns creamy", and then finishes it off with melted butter. This is certainly a nice idea, but apart from the fact it's more butter than egg (an idea not without its attractions, I admit), it leaves me with quite a lot of undercooked white. I assume this is a deficiency in the iteration of the recipe, rather than Point's technique, but a lump of melted butter is never going to cook a white that's not even changed colour properly.

Point料理他的蛋用“如此低，讓蛋白就是幾乎變成奶油”，然後用融化的奶油完成它。這當然是一個不錯的主意，但事實上，它除了更多的奶油，雞蛋（此想法也不是沒有它的吸引力，我承認），它讓給我留下了相當多未煮熟的蛋白。 我認為這是一個缺乏複製的食譜，而不是Point's技術不足之處，但一塊融化的奶油永遠不能煎蛋白，甚至不會改變適當改變顏色。

Tricks of the trade

貿易技巧

Cook's Illustrated recipe fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Cook's Illustrated stresses that the egg should be fried "over the lowest possible heat", but, unlike Point, the butter is allowed to foam rather than simply melt. They then cover the pan for the duration of the cooking to help speed up the process, which results in an almost perfectly cooked egg – a soft, but firm white, and a gorgeously runny yolk.

Cook's Illustrated強調奶油煎雞蛋應用“盡可能的低溫”， 與Point不同 ，是允許起泡沫，而不是簡單地融化。 然後，再烹調是將鍋蓋住，有利於加快時間過程，這樣的結果幾乎完美的將雞蛋煎好 – 柔軟緊實的蛋白，和華麗膠乳狀的蛋黃。

Lucinda Scala Quinn recipe fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Martha Stewart's "executive food director" Lucinda Scala Quinn's perfect egg recipe is similar, but she adds a teaspoon of water to the pan to help steam the egg. I don't think this is necessary: the Cook's Illustrated egg is just as well cooked and has a better flavour without the dilution of the butter.

“Martha Stewart瑪莎·斯圖爾特的“執行 Lucinda Scala Quinn's 完美的煎蛋食譜是相似的，但她將一茶匙的水的鍋，以幫助蒸煮雞蛋。 我不認為這是必要的：Cook' Illustrated的蛋，是一樣好料理不須稀釋奶油而有一個更好的味道。

Bernard Loiseau recipe fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Loiseau takes Point's low-heat technique a step further by cooking his egg on a saucer set over a pan of simmering water and then basting it with hot butter as before. It's even softer, but I'm beginning to wonder whether this is an entirely desirable quality – on reflection, I'd quite like my egg white to have some bite to it.

Loiseau盧瓦索使用Point's低熱的技術更進了一步烹飪他的雞蛋放在一個淺碟至於鍋上加水熱融，然後和以前一樣用熱黃油烤炙。 這是更柔軟，但我開始懷疑這是否是一個完全理想的質量 - 細想起來，我很喜歡我的蛋白可以咬。

David Rosengarten recipe fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Step forward David Rosengarten, who deep fries in olive oil for what he claims is "the crispiest, most flavorful fried eggs of all". He stresses the importance of sliding a spatula under the egg within 10 seconds of it entering the oil, a lesson I learn the hard way as I struggle to detach a monstrously overcooked egg from the pan, but otherwise, the technique is fairly simple. The results, however, are not for me – although the yolk is perfectly cooked, the white is almost crunchy, and very greasy. And as for the cleaning up ...

進一步來看David Rosengarten的食譜，用橄欖油深煎以聲稱“鬆脆，最可口的煎蛋之最”。 他強調最重要的是抹動鍋鏟下的蛋在10秒內加油，一節學習困難的方式，因為我努力分離駭人聽聞過頭的雞蛋，起油鍋，但除此之外，該技術是相當簡單的。然而，結果是不適合我 - 雖然完全煮熟的蛋黃，蛋白幾乎是易脆，很油膩。 而對於清潔...

Lastly, and with some trepidation, I try the sous-vide technique from Dr Nathan Myrhvold's new Modernist Cuisine at Home, a book apparently "destined to set a new standard for home cookbooks". It certainly sets a new standard for fried eggs: to make his sunny-side up eggs, I first need to borrow a sous vide machine from Lakeland.

法語：Cuisine sous vide 真空低溫烹調法

最後，有些不安，我試圖從Nathan Myrhvold博士的新現代主義美食首頁提供sous-vide技術，一本書，顯然是“命定的為家庭食譜”設定了新的標準。 這當然樹立了煎蛋新的標準，使他的煎蛋太陽的一面朝上，但首先我需要從湖區借sous vide machine 。

Dr Nathan Myrhvold recipe modernist sous vide 'fried' egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

Myrhvold explains that cooking the perfect fried egg poses an inherent problem as the yolks and whites reach their ideal states at different temperatures. To counter this, he cooks whole eggs in a 67C water bath for 40 minutes, until the yolks are "jammy", and discards the soupy whites. Ten fresh whites (for 4 yolks!) are whisked together with double cream and salt, and then baked, covered, in an 160C oven for 12 minutes. Once they're just set, the yolks are plopped on top and it's ready to serve, a mere one-and-a-quarter hours after I started. Despite my scepticism, it's all delicious: the whites tender and creamy, the yolks sticky and rich (although I wish I'd noticed his instruction to cook the yolks at 62C for the runny centres I like) – but it doesn't taste like a fried egg, for all my efforts. More a dinner party dish than a breakfast staple.

Myrhvold解釋，烹飪完美的煎蛋，蛋黃和蛋白在不同溫度下達到自己的理想狀態​​構成一個內在的問題。 為了解決這個問題，他將整顆蛋在67C水蒸浴40分鐘，，直到蛋黃變成“果醬”狀，並丟棄糊狀的蛋白。 10個新鮮蛋白（4個蛋黃！）一起用雙倍的奶油和鹽輕塗抹，然後再烤，覆蓋，在160C的烤箱12分鐘。 一旦好了，蛋黃就會噗的浮出在上，從我開始僅一又3/4小時的時間後就可提供服務。儘管我懷疑，這一切都美味的 。蛋白柔嫩和奶油，蛋黃粘稠和豐富的（雖然我希望我能注意到他的指令煮熟的蛋黃是在62C這是我喜歡的蛋黃濃稠度所烹調的溫度） - 但它沒有味道不像一個煎蛋，我所有的努力比較像是料理一道晚宴菜勝於早餐的主食。

In an attempt to simplify the process, I also try separating the eggs and then frying them as normal, adding the yolks a minute into cooking, but it's a fiddly business (relatively speaking) and I don't think the results are any better than the covered eggs I liked so much. So I'll be sticking with this simple but effective method – quick and easy enough to make the morning after the night before, and guaranteed to hit the spot every time.

fiddly[ˋfɪdlɪ]【口】細小而又難對付的sticking釘住; 枝條; 柴枝

hit the spot 正如我意; 就是我想要的

在嘗試簡化過程中，我也嘗試分離蛋，然後像平常那般煎油炸他們，加入蛋黃煮一分鐘內，但它是一個繁瑣的業務（相對而言），我不認為結果是比蓋住雞蛋那種我喜歡的方式好。 所以我會堅持這個簡單而有效的方法 - 快速，很容易使前一天晚上早晨起床後做早餐，保證每次正如我意。

Perfect fried eggs

完美的煎蛋

Felicity's perfect fried egg. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

For each egg

1 fresh egg, at room temperature
1 tbsp butter
Salt and pepper

每個雞蛋

1新鮮雞蛋需在室溫下
1湯匙奶油
鹽和胡椒

Place a saucepan lid over the cooking eggs. Photograph: Felicity Cloake

1. Crack the egg on to a saucer to make it easier to slide into the pan. Heat the butter in a heavy-based frying pan over a low heat, and find a slightly domed saucepan lid, ideally slightly smaller than the pan itself, so you can place it over the cooking eggs.

saucepan[ˋsɔs͵pæn]平底深鍋lid[lɪd]蓋子Crack [kræk] 使爆裂, 使破裂domed圓屋頂的;

domed[domd] 圓屋頂的; 半球形的

1． 將蛋打破放入平底鍋，以使其更易於滑動倒入鍋內。 在重的煎鍋把奶油加熱，和找到一個稍微圓頂的平底深鍋蓋，最好略小於鍋本身，所以在煎雞蛋時可以將其放置。
2. Once the butter has melted, but not begun to foam, swirl it around the pan to coat, then slide in the egg. If you're cooking more than one, be careful not to crowd the pan.
swirl[swɝl] 打旋, 旋轉coat塗在...上; 覆蓋...的表面slide[slaɪd]滑動
2。 一旦奶油融化，但沒有開始泛泡沫，將鍋打漩渦周圍的塗層，然後滑動雞蛋。 如果你正在做不止一個，小心，不要整鍋都是。
3. Cover and leave for 3½ minutes, then check the white is cooked, lift out, season gently, and serve immediately

3。 蓋住至少3分半鐘，然後檢查蛋白已熟，拿起，輕拿輕放，即可食用

Fried eggs: the cornerstone of a good breakfast, or the fallback option for those who haven't mastered scrambled or poached? How do you cook your perfect fried egg, and what else do you serve them with apart from a hearty fry up?

scrambled [ˋskræmb!]爬行, 攀爬cornerstone柱石; 地基poached[potʃ] 水煮(蛋)

煎蛋: 良好早餐的基石，或是那些還沒有掌握煎炒或水煮的後備選項嗎？ 你怎麼完美的煎蛋，除了豐盛的熱炒還有什麼是你能為他們提供的服務？